India

Day 1: Depart (eg from UK) on flight to Delhi

Day 2: Fly from Delhi to Leh

The tour starts at Leh airport in the morning, as all flights from Delhi are scheduled to arrive early in the day, normally offering spectacular and extensive panoramic vistas of the Himalayas. We will transfer to our hotel, about 20 minutes from the airport, for a two-night stay.

Leh is at an altitude of around 11,400 ft (3,475m), so the reduced oxygen level needs adjusting to and we will have a gentle first day.  Our experience is that most people will spend a proportion of the day resting as this is the best way to acclimatise, with some then going birding around the hotel grounds and nearby gardens, fields and streams.

With prayer flags to be seen everywhere, and monasteries sitting atop small hillocks, it is often said that this part of India is very much like Tibet used to be, before the Chinese took control and the Dalai Lama fled to India. Overnight Leh

Day 3: Birding and mammal watching in the Indus Valley near Leh plus visit to Thikse Monastery

We will spend the day with gentle excursions by minibus looking for wildlife along the banks of the Indus River and the opportunity to visit Thikse Monastery, perched atop a low hill, citadel-like, and often likened to the winter palace of the Dalai Lamas, the Potala, in Lhasa, Tibet. Throughout the Leh area, there are several monasteries and the prayer wheels, chortens, statues of Buddha and prayer flags of Tibetan Buddhism abound.

Against this backdrop, in the cultivated areas close to the river Indus, and along the river itself we will seek several iconic birds, including the extraordinary Ibisbill which is undoubtedly one of the world’s more unusual looking waders with its grey and black head and brilliant red decurved bill, the elusive and well camouflaged Solitary Snipe, and enjoy hordes of the dramatic and delightful Güldenstädt’s (White-winged) Redstarts.

Other birds to be found here include Black-eared Kite, Northern Goshawk, Upland Buzzard, Cinereous Tit, Blue Whistling Thrush, White-capped Redstart, Black-throated Thrush, Brown and Robin Accentors, White Wagtail of the striking form personata, aka “Masked Wagtail”, and Mongolian Finch.

On our planned visit to the amazing Thikse Monastery we will learn a little about Tibetan Buddhist culture, see first-hand the extraordinary buildings and artwork, and will likely encounter various birds around the buildings such as Red-billed Chough, or see a Lammergeier, Himalayan Griffon or Golden Eagle soaring overhead.

All the while we can see Hemis National Park rising from the opposite side of the Indus valley, its lure is irresistible. The search for Snow Leopard beckons us. Overnight Leh

Day 4: Depart Leh, drive to Hemis Hational Park, walk to campsite.

After breakfast, we will drive into Hemis National Park, and to the trailhead which is at a very similar altitude to the hotel. It is about an hour and a half drive, but we will be sure to stop for roadside wildlife, and dramatic scenery photos, including a viewpoint high above the deep gorge along the Indus prior to its confluence with the Zanskar river, where our guides will offer gifts at a Buddhist shrine.

Our Snow Leopard Camp will have been set up in advance, and a three-course hot lunch awaits us. All of our bags will be taken directly there, by mules, except anything we wish to keep with us as we stroll gently up the valley to camp. At around 12,800ft (3,900m), camp is not much higher than the hotel in Leh.

Our walk will be at a gentle pace and take around one and a half to two hours, with stops for photos and wildlife. We will already be in habitat for Snow Leopards, indeed we have seen them very close to the trailhead in the past, so we will be keeping a keen eye out.

If one is sighted, we can call our camp staff by radio to request that they bring lunch to us. Once at camp, and after settling in, if there is no Snow Leopard on view, the rest of the day will likely be spent at the vantage point very close-by, looking for Snow Leopards other mammals and birds, and enjoying afternoon tea brought to us before returning for dinner. Overnight in tent camp

Days 5-11: Exploring around tent camp for Snow Leopards and other wildlife.

We have seven full days to look for Snow Leopards and with around 12 hours of daylight, we will have plenty of time to both look for wildlife and get a good night’s rest. Before dawn, the calls of Himalayan Snowcocks and Chukars are most likely to be the first sound that we will hear each day, although the mating calls of Snow Leopard, the bark of a Red Fox, or the howling of Grey Wolves are all possible too.

The typical day will start with hot tea/coffee and biscuits delivered to the door of your own tent, followed by a bowl of hot water for a refreshing wash. Our guides will already be on the lookout for Snow Leopards, either from the camp, or from the vantage point very close by. You have the option to join them or take your time and have a more leisurely start.

A hearty breakfast will either be served in the dining tent, or, if we are watching Snow Leopard(s), then the team can bring it to us “in-the-field”.

Afterwards, if a Snow Leopard has not yet been spotted, we can walk out of camp to carry on searching for them, typically along the valley floor to the corner of another valley.

The amount of walking you choose to do each day is entirely up to you. You may, if you wish, choose to stay around camp all day, and just head out when a Snow Leopard is spotted. Generally, however, we will aim to hike about a mile or so out of camp most days, with the uphill walking being at a slow pace. For those who wish to push on uphill and expend more energy there will be opportunities, but generally Snow Leopards can readily be seen from the valley floor.

Most of the walking will be on gentle inclines, on primitive trails or jeep tracks, although occasionally we may need to get into a better position for viewing which can involve steeper walking for short distances.

If you wish to make your walking significantly more comfortable, we are very pleased to offer you the chance to hire a personal porter for the period that we are camping, as your porter can then carry your backpack, camera gear, tripod, scope etc. It is remarkable how much this helps when you are walking up even the gentlest of gradients here.

On at least one day, we will go into the nearby village and have morning tea, or eat our lunch in a traditional home, maybe drink Tibetan tea, and have the chance to purchase locally made souvenirs, such as a felt Snow Leopard, made with naturally coloured wool and hand spun yarn.

Other mammals that are found here include Lynx, Woolly Hare, Grey Wolf, Mountain Weasel, Large-eared Pika and plenty of the Snow Leopards’ favourite prey, Blue Sheep (Bharal). There are some great birds to be seen too, including Himalayan Snowcock, Tibetan Partridge, Chukar, Lammergeier, Himalayan Griffon, Golden Eagle, Hill Pigeon, Red-billed and Yellow-billed Choughs, Wallcreeper, the extraordinary, purplish-coloured White-browed (Stoliczka’s) Tit-Warbler, Brown Dipper, Brown and Robin Accentors, Red-fronted Serin, Great and Streaked Rosefinches.

Whenever we are away from camp, our staff will bring us hot tea, coffee and a snack, mid-morning and mid-afternoon, whilst in the middle of the day, we will also get a hot lunch delivered to wherever we are. Evening meals in the dining tent are a sociable time, as we recap on the day’s sightings before heading to bed with a hot water bottle. Seven further nights in tent camp

Days 12-13: Leave campsite and return to Leh

After breakfast and a last look for Snow Leopards, we will pack our bags which will be transported back to the public road and onto Leh, and we will walk back down to the transfer point.

We will be met by our minibuses, drive back to Leh, with a special detour on the way to look for Tibetan Ibex and Ladakh Urial (Red Sheep). We will take lunch enroute and arrive back in Leh late afternoon.

The following day we will have the minibus available again and will go in search of further wildlife with our priorities determined by what we have already seen. Two nights Leh

Day 14: Depart Leh / or start extension.

After breakfast, anyone not joining the extension will have a short transfer to the airport from where it is an approximately 1 hour 15 mins flight back to Delhi, for onward connections to international flights.

Day 15: Arrive UK

EXTENSION (10-16 March 2025):

Day 14: Transfer to Changthang Plateau, looking for wildlife enroute.

Having said goodbye to anyone not joining the extension, we will leave Leh after breakfast and drive southeast up the mighty Indus River valley towards its source in Tibet. This road, much of it recently improved, follows the river for the most part and whilst it occasionally detours to avoid deep gorges, it does not go over any high mountain passes.

The Indus valley is a spectacular drive, and we plan to make multiple stops, for wildlife, for photos, and for lunch. We will be looking for Ladakh Urial, Solitary Snipe, Brown Dipper, Wallcreeper, Tibetan Lark and Great Rosefinch. It is likely that we will see our first Kiang (Tibetan Wild Ass) as we reach the Changthang Plateau.

Once we near the Tibetan border, by late afternoon, we will begin our quest in earnest for the special birds and mammals of this region. Nights at homestay/guesthouse

Days 15-17: Exploring the Changthang Plateau

We have three full days to explore this area and its sweeping panoramas that looks very different to the mountain valleys around Leh and Hemis National Park.

Using our homestay as a base and the minibus for transport, we will search the plains of the Changthang Plateau and adjacent hillsides for the specialist mammals that are regularly seen here including Pallas’s Cat, Tibetan Gazelle, Grey Wolf, Tibetan Fox, Argali – the largest species of wild sheep in the world and Kiang (Tibetan Wild Ass).

In addition, this area hosts several iconic species of birds, including Tibetan Snowcock, Ruddy Shelduck, Tibetan Sandgrouse, Ground Tit – formerly known as Hume’s Groundpecker, Upland Buzzard, Eagle Owl of the Himalayan form hemachalanus, Saker Falcon, Horned Lark, Tibetan Lark, Blanford’s and Black-winged Snowfinches, Black-headed Mountain Finch and Great Rosefinch. If Spring is advanced, we may again see Bar-headed Geese at any open water, and if we are very lucky, an early Black-necked Crane.

As with our time spent on the main part of the trip, we will make use of expert Ladakhi spotters who know the habits of the animals, and have local contacts, thereby hugely increasing our chances of a successful visit.

We plan to keep our extension flexible and if we have not found all our main targets from our first base, we may switch locations partway through, moving to a different, basic lodge about four hours’ drive away. Nights at homestay/lodge

Day 18: Return to Leh

After some final time in the field, we will leave our accommodation after breakfast, and drive back to Leh along the spectacular Indus valley. We will make stops as we travel, taking the opportunity to enjoy the scenery and wildlife opportunities, as well as a lunch stop. Night in Leh

Day 19: Depart Leh

After breakfast it is a short transfer to the airport from where it is an approximately 1 hour 15 mins flight back to Delhi, and onward connections to international flights, eg back to the UK.

Day 20: Arrive UK

WHAT TO EXPECT

Unparalleled scenery, exceedingly high chances to see Snow Leopard as well as a host of other mammals and great birds, a warm and well-appointed hotel in Leh, remarkably comfortable camping in the best place at the best time of year to see Snow Leopards, an extension based in a clean and comfortable homestay guesthouse, and an exceedingly friendly expert team to look after you.

The objective is to maximise our chances of seeing Snow Leopards, and with the majority of the trip being based inside the National Park, and for a good number of nights, we have an excellent chance of success, indeed, multiple sightings, and we have never failed on any of our previous visits here.

Expect the opportunity to stroll a mile or two most days, although we will generally be spending a significant portion of each day sitting and scanning, and enjoying hot food and drink wherever we are. The walks are entirely optional, and you can remain at the camp and scan from there if you wish, and wait for a call on the radio.

We will have an experienced support crew and spotters based at the camp throughout our stay, as well as our great cook-team. We have a big, heated dining tent, and will enjoy freshly cooked, hearty hot meals three times a day, as well as tea and snacks mornings and afternoons.

It is not a luxury trip, nor is it truly rugged, it is all explained below.

ACCOMMODATION

Our Hotel in Leh is comfortable, with spacious rooms, ensuite facilities, running hot and cold water, central heating mornings and evenings, electricity and internet. Most of this can be expected, but not 100% guaranteed. Bottled water is available for drinking, as well as hot tea and coffee, and we will enjoy freshly cooked meals in the hotel dining room.

The WildWings Camp is remarkably comfortable, full service, fully-portered in and out, and we will be very well looked after, with a whole team of cooks and camp helpers attending to our needs.

Modern, large tents are provided which are tall enough for the average person to stand in and these have beds and a heater.

A sleeping bag, rated for -20C is provided, and extra blankets are available.

At the camp, we will have a generator that we will use occasionally for battery charging whenever needed. There are no permanent facilities at camp other than a toilet building and we are entirely self-sufficient.

The Homestay Guesthouse on the extension is simple, but warm, clean and comfortable, and we will have our own cook team to provide us three cooked meals a day. Depending upon our success, and on local information, we may opt to spend one night at a more basic lodge.

SHOWERS

Hot showers will be available throughout the trip, even whilst camping.

TENTS

The cost of the main tour now includes bigger tents which have off-the-ground beds, heating, a chair, bedside table, and room enough to stand-up inside.

The inclusive price is for a shared twin-bedded room in Leh, plus a shared tent.

DAILY ROUTINE WHILST CAMPING

Staying inside the National Park, in a remote valley during Snow Leopard mating season, is a special privilege afforded to only a few every year. Clear skies, dark nights, and days interrupted only by magnificent views, wildlife, and hot food. We are a long way from the normal daily life…

With around 12 hours of daylight, we will have plenty of opportunity to both explore and get a good night’s rest. The calls of Himalayan Snowcocks and Chukars are most likely the first sound that we will hear each morning, although sometimes it might be the mating call of a Snow Leopard or the howling of Grey Wolves.

The typical day will start with hot tea/coffee and biscuits being delivered to your tent, followed by a bowl of hot water for a refreshing wash. Our guides will be already on the lookout for Snow Leopards, either from the camp, or from a vantage point close by. You can choose to join them on the lookout or take your time and have a more leisurely start.

Hot, freshly cooked breakfast will be served either in the dining tent, or perhaps in-the-field, whichever is appropriate on the day. Afterwards, if no Snow Leopard has yet been spotted, we will offer a short hike out of camp to carry on searching for them from a different vantage point.

The amount of hiking you choose to do is really up to you. You may, if you wish, choose to stay around camp all day, and just head out when the camp radio informs you that a Snow Leopard is spotted. However, it is our aim to offer everyone hikes of a mile or so, each way, along the valleys most days to reach different vantage points close to our camp, so you can be present when the Snow Leopard is found, or indeed, be the one to actually find it.

Most of the hiking will be on quite gentle inclines, on well used paths, but occasionally we may want to get into a better position for viewing which may involve some steeper walking for short distances, and off the path. We will always ensure that you can walk at your own pace, and our camp team are great at helping everyone, whatever your comfort level or ability.

Whenever we are away from camp, our staff bring us hot tea, coffee and a snack, mid-morning and mid-afternoon, plus, in the middle of the day, we will get a 3-course hot meal delivered to wherever we are.

Supper is always a sociable time as we recount the highlights of the day, record our sightings, and the conversation often turns to adventures around the world. The evening rounds off with hot water bottles being delivered, ensuring a snug night ahead.

PERSONAL PORTER OPTION

Whilst we are on the camping part of the trip, ten days in Hemis National Park, you will not have to carry anything from the trailhead to camp on the first or last day, nor will you have to carry any food, drinks, lunches at any time.

Most of our time will be spent within the valley floor region at or close to camp, within a mile or two, and nearly all of our sightings of Snow Leopards have not involved needing to walk up onto high ridges. That said, there is reduced oxygen at this altitude, which is at a similar elevation to the top of the popular ski resorts in Colorado. Carrying your scope/tripod/camera/daypack whilst we are in the field, moving between viewpoints, will involve more effort than at sea level.

We are very pleased to offer you an optional personal local porter, who will make your walking more comfortable, and speedier. They can carry up to two peoples’ optical equipment, plus spare clothing etc.

Personal porters need to be booked at least one month before the trip. The cost is £425 per porter and covers their pay, food, lodging and entrance fees for the days in Hemis National Park.

FOOD

Throughout the trip, we will have plenty of hearty food, freshly prepared by our own excellent cook team, except at the hotel in Leh, where similar food is prepared by the hotel staff. Special diets can be catered for, so long as requested in advance, ie at the time of booking.

Set meals, with multiple dishes and courses, are served three times a day, featuring Western, Indian, Chinese, Tibetan or Ladakhi dishes, with the latter only gently spiced, but warm in Celsius terms. Hot sauces and chilli will also be available. Fresh eggs, chicken, pulses and cheese will form a significant part of our dining, alongside homemade soups, potatoes, rice or pasta, fresh baked local breads, local jams and porridge. Even though Ladakh is cut off by road for the entire winter, we will have fresh vegetables and fruits, as well as dried Ladakhi apricots.

At camp we eat in a heated dining tent with a single long dining table, where we will be served hot meals at breakfast and dinner, and lunch too, although the latter is as likely to be a picnic in the field, with hot soup, a hot main course, dessert and tea/coffee, brought to us no matter where we have walked to.

Additionally, tea, coffee and snacks are available throughout the day at the hotel, homestay and in camp. When we are out in the field, we will be brought hot tea/coffee and snacks mid-morning and again mid-afternoon, delivered to us in the field by our “camp-runners”, who utilise insulated canteens and Thermos flasks to ensure that we get hot food and drink wherever we are.

WEATHER / CLIMATE

The trip is timed at the start of Spring. Ladakh lies in the rain shadow of the Himalayas and has a very dry climate. The lack of humidity ensures that the temperatures here are remarkably more tolerable than when similar temperatures are experienced in most other parts of the world.

Daytime temperatures at the time of our visit will be cool, with highs around freezing, up to 10C (50F) or more, but feeling much warmer in the sun. In camp the tents will warm up significantly on sunny days as we will be in a south facing aspect.

Overnight low temperatures are mostly in the range -15C to -10C (5F to 15F), occasionally colder, exceptionally down to around -25°C (-15°F). As above, the very dry climate ensures that such temperatures are significantly more tolerable than similar temperatures in moister climates, e.g., the UK.

Clear conditions will likely be interspersed with occasional cloudier, even overcast days. We are likely to get a light powdery snowfall at some point, around 2-4cm (1”-2”). Given that Ladakh has an entire annual precipitation of only ca.10cm (4”) of rain equivalent, heavier falls are very infrequent. Some walking in a thin layer of lying snow is to be expected.

Generally, there is very little wind, although a slight breeze is not unusual in the afternoons.

It is important to bring a good down jacket, good, roomy walking boots, and a selection of layers to shed as the days warm up.

COMMUNICATIONS

Expect internet service in Leh, but nowhere else on the trip. We have, however, experienced the internet go down for days on end in the past, due to a landslide taking out the main fibre optic cable.

Foreign mobile phones only work in Ladakh if you have an Indian SIM card. There is limited mobile signal at our camp, but we are also able to communicate with the outside world in case of emergency by sending a guide to a nearby village.

PASSPORT

Your passport needs to be valid for a full six months after the end of the trip.

An Indian Visa is required and the WildWings office will provide the additional information you will need to get this well in advance of the trip departure.

FLIGHTS

The itinerary shows the dates that you can fly to/from the UK. All our trips are priced “land-only”, giving you the freedom to travel from your own choice of airport, on whatever dates and routing suits you. You are free to book your own flights or use our recommended ATOL bonded agency, and whichever you choose to do, we will be very pleased to assist you.

That said, we strongly recommend that you book your flights for this trip via an agency, rather than doing them yourself, because, in the event of any schedule changes, flight delays or cancellations whilst you are in Ladakh, you are highly unlikely to be able to deal with the airline personally due to lack of internet and phone service. Nobody else can deal with the airline on your behalf, unless you booked your flight through a travel agency.

Our highly experienced independent travel agent Sacha Barbato, of “Travel Counsellors”, an ATOL bonded company, is briefed on suitable flights for this trip. Additionally, as noted, in the event of any schedule changes etc whilst you are away, the airline will notify Travel Counsellors and Sacha will be able to deal with them on your behalf.

Sacha Barbato, Travel Counsellors Ltd, 01603 360099 [email protected]

NOTE: The only way to get to Leh in the winter is to fly from Delhi to Leh airport, IXL. It is a short, approximately one hour and 15 minutes flight on a modern jet, and service is offered by multiple airlines. The airstrip in Leh is a large military facility, but flights are occasionally delayed or cancelled due to visibility issues including fog or snow.

Flights from Delhi to Leh have traditionally operated very early in the morning only, and we are not expecting that to change. You may, therefore, wish to stay at an airport hotel in Delhi on your outbound journey. Conversely, at the end of your trip, early morning flight times Leh-Delhi generally allow for same-day connections in Delhi including, for example, onto direct flights back to the UK, arriving in the UK on the same day that you leave Leh.

FITNESS LEVEL

This trip requires the ability to walk short to medium distances on uneven terrain, mainly in river valleys. Walking uphill will be taken much more slowly due to the altitude, but this is not an extreme high-altitude trip. Most ski holidays in North America involves similar altitudes.

HEALTH

There are no compulsory vaccinations required at the time of writing (except proof of covid vaccination), and at the time of year that we are travelling, there are no mosquitoes in Ladakh. However, please consult your medical professional for complete and up-to-date advice.

Altitude: The majority of the tour is between 11,500 to 13,000 feet (3,500-4,000 metres) above sea level, slightly higher on the extension. This is not dissimilar to the top of many popular ski-resorts in Colorado and most people do not have any problem acclimatising if you are strict about no exercise of any sort for the first 24 hours after you arrive. That is why we specifically have two nights in Leh at the start of our trip, and it has always worked out OK. If you have not travelled to such altitudes before, and even if you have, you may wish to talk to your doctor about how to avoid altitude sickness, and whether Acetazolamide (Diamox) may be appropriate or useful for you.

QUESTIONS

If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to either email or phone the office and we will be very happy to chat about this trip or have Dick Filby call you back.

• Ladakh_Trip_Report_2023
• Ladakh_Completed_Checklist_2023
• INDIA Ladakh Snow Leopards Trip Report and Systematic List 2018
• INDIA Ladakh Snow Leopards Trip Report and Systematic List 2017