India

Day 1: Depart UK for Delhi

Day 2: Fly from Delhi to Leh

The tour starts at Leh airport in the morning, as all flights from Delhi are scheduled to arrive early in the day, normally offering spectacular panoramic vistas of the Himalayas. On arrival, we will transfer to our hotel for a two-night stay.

Leh is at an altitude of around 11,400 ft (3,475m), so the reduced oxygen level needs adjusting to and we will have a gentle first day, during which we will start our exploration of the Leh area with birding around the hotel grounds and nearby gardens, fields and streams.

With prayer flags fluttering everywhere, and monasteries atop nearby hills, it is often said that this part of India is very much like Tibet used to be, before the Chinese took control and the Dalai Lama fled to India. Overnight Leh

Day 3: Birding and mammal watching in the Indus Valley near Leh plus visit to Thikse Monastery

We will spend the day on a gentle excursion looking for wildlife along the banks of the Indus River and visit Thikse Monastery, which is perched, citadel-like, on a low hill and often likened to the winter palace of the Dalai Lamas in Tibet. Throughout the area, there are several monasteries and Buddhist prayer wheels, chortens, statues of Buddha and prayer flags abound.

In the cultivated areas close to the river, and along the riverbanks themselves, we will seek out several iconic birds including the extraordinary Ibisbill which is undoubtedly one of the world’s most unusual looking waders with its grey and black head and brilliant red decurved bill. Another target is the elusive Solitary Snipe, and we can also expect to enjoy good numbers of the impressive Güldenstädt’s Redstart.

Other possibilities include Black-eared Kite, Upland Buzzard, Cinereous Tit, Blue Whistling Thrush, White-capped Redstart, Black-throated Thrush, Brown and Robin Accentors and Mongolian Finch.

On our visit to the amazing Thikse Monastery, we will learn a little about Tibetan Buddhist culture, see the extraordinary buildings and artwork, whilst Lammergeier, Himalayan Griffon and Golden Eagle may be seen soaring overhead. Overnight Leh

Day 4: Depart Leh, drive to Hemis Hational Park

After breakfast, we will leave Leh and drive to Hemis National Park. It should take 90 minutes, but we are likely to stop for roadside wildlife and to enjoy the dramatic scenery, including a viewpoint high above a deep gorge along the Indus prior to its confluence with the Zanskar river.

Our base is at an altitude of around 12,800ft (3,900m) so not much higher than the hotel in Leh.

We will then begin our exploration of the area and are likely to spend at least part of the afternoon at a nearby vantage point looking for Snow Leopards, other mammals and birds. At some point, afternoon tea will be brought to us before we return to our comfortable base for dinner. Overnight glamping in Hemis National Park

Days 5-8: Exploring around base for Snow Leopards and other wildlife.

We will have the equivalent of five days to look for Snow Leopards and with around 12 hours of daylight, there will be plenty of time to look for wildlife and get a good night’s rest.

Prior to dawn, the calls of Himalayan Snowcocks and Chukars are likely to be the first sounds of the day, although the mating calls of a Snow Leopard or the howling of Grey Wolves are also possible.

The typical day will start with hot tea or coffee and biscuits delivered to you, along with a bowl of hot water for a refreshing wash. Our guides will already be on the lookout for Snow Leopards, either from our base or nearby. You have the option to join them or take your time and have a more leisurely start.

A hearty breakfast will either be served in the heated and roomy dining tent, or, if we are already watching Snow Leopard(s), then the team can bring this to us “in the field”.

Afterwards, if a Snow Leopard has not yet been spotted, we may decide to go for a gentle walk along the valley floor to carry on searching for them.

The amount of walking you choose to do each day is entirely up to you. You may choose to stay around our comfortable base all day and just head out when a Snow Leopard is spotted, however, for those who wish, there will usually be the option of a hike of about a mile or so most days, with any uphill walking being at a slow pace. For those who wish to push on uphill and expend more energy, there will be opportunities, but generally Snow Leopards can readily be seen from the valley floor.

Most of the walking will be on gentle inclines, on simple trails or jeep tracks, although occasionally we may need to get into a better position for viewing which can involve steeper walking for short distances.

If you wish to make your walking significantly more comfortable, we can arrange a personal porter for your stay in Hemis National Park who can then carry your backpack, camera gear, tripod, scope etc. It is remarkable how much this helps when you are walking up even the gentlest of gradients.

Other mammals that are found here include Lynx, Woolly Hare, Grey Wolf, Mountain Weasel, Large-eared Pika and plenty of the Snow Leopards’ favourite prey, Blue Sheep (Bharal). There are some great birds too including Himalayan Snowcock, Tibetan Partridge, Lammergeier, Himalayan Griffon, Hill Pigeon, Yellow-billed Chough, Wallcreeper, the extraordinary, purplish-coloured White-browed (Stoliczka’s) Tit-Warbler, Brown Dipper, Brown and Robin Accentors, Red-fronted Serin and both Great and Streaked Rosefinches.

Whenever we are away from our base, our friendly support team will bring us hot tea, coffee and a snack, mid-morning and mid-afternoon, whilst in the middle of the day, we will also get a hot lunch delivered to wherever we are. Evening meals in the heated dining tent are a sociable time, as we recap on the day’s sightings before heading to bed with a hot water bottle. Four further nights glamping in Hemis National Park

Day 9: Leave Hemis National Park and return to Leh

Our plans for the day will largely be determined by what we have seen and if we have already had some good Snow Leopard encounters, we are likely to leave in the morning and take an indirect route back to Leh looking for Tibetan Ibex and Ladakh Urial (Red Sheep), otherwise we will spend most of the day in Hemis National Park. Overnight Leh

Day 10: Depart Leh and drive to Changthang Plateau, looking for wildlife enroute

After breakfast, we will leave Leh and drive southeast up the mighty Indus River valley towards its source in Tibet. The road follows the river and whilst it occasionally detours to avoid deep gorges, it does not go over any high mountain passes.

It is a spectacular drive, and we plan to make multiple stops to look for wildlife. We will be looking for Ladakh Urial, Solitary Snipe, Brown Dipper, Wallcreeper, Tibetan Lark and Great Rosefinch. It is likely that we will see our first Kiang (Tibetan Wild Ass) as we reach the Changthang Plateau.

Once we near the Tibetan border, we will begin our quest in earnest for the special mammals and birds of this region. Nights at homestay/guesthouse

Days 11-13: Exploring the Changthang Plateau

We have three full days to explore this area and its sweeping panoramas that looks very different to the mountain valleys around Leh and Hemis National Park.

Using our minibus for transport, we will search the plains of the plateau and adjacent hillsides for the specialist mammals that are regularly seen with our major target being the delightful Pallas’s Cat. Although this species has a range that spans from the Caucasus Mountains to southern Siberia, it is tricky to access much of its range, however, we have a great chance to see this small feline with our local team having an excellent knowledge of where to look for it in this remote but spectacular region.

Other mammals we will hope to see include Tibetan Gazelle, Grey Wolf, Tibetan Fox, Argali (the largest species of wild sheep in the world) and Kiang (Tibetan Wild Ass) so we can expect to see some fantastic mammals during our three days.

In addition, the area is also home to multiple iconic birds with Tibetan Snowcock, Tibetan Sandgrouse, Ground Tit (formerly known as Hume’s Groundpecker), Upland Buzzard, Saker Falcon, Tibetan Lark, Blanford’s and Black-winged Snowfinches, Black-headed Mountain Finch and Great Rosefinch amongst those we hope to see. Indeed, if the Spring is advanced, we may also see Bar-headed Geese on any open water, and if we are very lucky, an early Black-necked Crane.

As with our time spent in Hemis National Park, we will make use of expert Ladakhi spotters who know the habits of the animals, and have local contacts, thereby hugely increasing our chances of a successful visit.

We plan to keep our plans flexible and if we have not found all our main targets from our first base, we may switch locations partway through, moving to a different lodge. Nights at homestay/lodge

Day 14: Return to Leh

We plan to leave after breakfast driving back westwards along the spectacular Indus valley. We will make stops as we travel, taking the opportunity to enjoy the scenery and wildlife opportunities and expect to arrive back in Leh in the mid-late afternoon. Night in Leh

Day 15: Depart Leh

After breakfast, it is a short transfer to the airport from where it is an approximately 75-minute flight back to Delhi with onward connections to international flights.

Day 16: Arrive UK

WHAT TO EXPECT

Unparalleled scenery, excellent chances to see Snow Leopard and Pallas’s Cat, as well as a host of other special mammals and great birds.

We stay in a warm and well-appointed hotel in Leh, enjoy remarkably comfortable glamping in our quest to see Snow Leopards staying in what we consider is the best place at the perfect time of year.

Our objective is to maximise on our chances of not only seeing Snow Leopards but also hopefully see them hunting or mating, with both these activities observed on our recent tours.  As Snow Leopards are most active in the early morning and late afternoon, staying inside the national park is, therefore, crucial and sets the WildWings tour apart from many of the trips offered by others.

We, therefore, believe that “glamping” in the National Park is the best option to maximise on your experience and we have an excellent chance of success, and to date have never failed on any of our previous visits here.

There will be optional walks of a mile or two most days, although we will generally spend a significant portion of the day sitting and scanning, and enjoying hot food and drink wherever we are.  If you wish, however, you can remain at our base and scan from there and await a call on the radio.

We have an experienced support crew and spotters throughout our stay in Hemis National Park, as well as a great cook-team.  We have a big, heated dining tent and enjoy freshly cooked, hot meals three times a day, as well as tea and snacks mornings and afternoons.

We then head east down the Indus valley where we stay in a warm, clean and comfortable homestay and explore by minibus looking for Pallas’s Cat, Tibetan Gazelle, Argali and Kiang plus some more fantastic birds.

ACCOMMODATION

Our Hotel in Leh is comfortable, with spacious rooms, ensuite facilities, running hot and cold water, central heating mornings and evenings, electricity and internet.  Most of this can be expected, but not 100% guaranteed.  Bottled water is available for drinking, as well as hot tea and coffee, and we will enjoy freshly cooked meals in the hotel dining room.

The WildWings “Glamping” Base is remarkably comfortable and we will be very well looked after, with a whole team of cooks and helpers attending to our needs.

We use modern, large tents which are tall enough for the average person to stand in and these have beds and a heater.  A sleeping bag, rated for -20C is provided, and extra blankets are available.

We will have a generator for battery charging whenever needed.  There are no permanent facilities where we stay other than a toilet building.

The Homestay Guesthouse on the Changthang Plateau is simple, but warm, clean and comfortable, and we will have our own cook team to provide us three cooked meals a day. Depending upon our success, and on local information, we may opt to spend one night at a more basic lodge.

Showers and toilets

Hot showers will be available during the trip, even whilst staying in Hemis National Park and we also have a solution for anyone worried about needing the toilet during the nights in the park……

PERSONAL PORTER

Nearly all our previous Snow Leopards sightings in Hemis National Park have been within the valley floor region and a mile or two of our base, however, the reduced oxygen at this altitude, means carrying your scope/tripod/camera/daypack will involve more effort than at sea level.

As a result, you have the option to hire a personal local porter, which will make your walking more comfortable and speedier. The porter can carry up to two peoples’ optical equipment, plus spare clothing etc.

Personal porters need to be booked at least one month before the trip.  The cost is £295 per porter and covers their pay, food, lodging and entrance fees in Hemis National Park.

FOOD

In Leh we eat in the hotel’s restaurant, however, for the rest of the trip, we will have hearty meals which are freshly prepared by our own excellent cook team.  Most special diets can be catered for as long as these are requested in advance.

Set meals, with multiple dishes and courses, are served three times a day, featuring Western, Indian, Chinese, Tibetan and Ladakhi dishes, with the latter only gently spiced.  Fresh eggs, chicken, pulses and cheese will form a significant part of our dining, alongside homemade soups, potatoes, rice, pasta, freshly baked local breads, local jams and porridge.

Even though Ladakh is cut off by road for the entire winter, we will still have fresh vegetables and fruits, as well as dried Ladakhi apricots.

In Hemis National Park, we eat in a heated dining tent with a single long dining table, where we will be served hot meals at breakfast and dinner.  Lunch is often a picnic in the field, with hot soup, a hot main course, dessert and tea/coffee, brought to us no matter where we have walked to.

Tea, coffee and snacks are available throughout the day at the hotel, homestay and in Hemis National Park.  When we are out in the field, we will be brought hot tea/coffee and snacks mid-morning and again mid-afternoon, delivered to us by our “camp-runners”, who utilise insulated canteens and Thermos flasks to ensure that we get hot food and drink wherever we are.

WEATHER/CLIMATE

Our trip is timed at the start of Spring and as Ladakh is in the rain shadow of the Himalayas, the climate is typically very dry.

Daytime temperatures will be cool with highs of up to 10C (50F) or more, but feeling much warmer in the sun.  Our glamping accommodation will warm up significantly on sunny days as we are in a south facing aspect.

Overnight low temperatures are mostly in the range -15C to -10C (5F to 15F), however, the very dry climate ensures that it is significantly more tolerable than similar temperatures in moister climates such as the UK.

Clear conditions are likely to be interspersed with occasional cloudier days and we may get a light powdery snowfall at some point of around 2-4cm.  Given that Ladakh has annual precipitation of only c.10cm of rain equivalent, heavier falls are very unusual but we are likely to be walking on a thin layer of snow at times.

Generally, there is very little wind, although a slight breeze is not unusual in the afternoons.

FITNESS LEVEL

This trip requires the ability to walk short to medium distances on uneven terrain, mainly in river valleys.  Walking uphill will be taken much more slowly due to the altitude, but this is not an extreme high-altitude trip.

ALTITUDE

The majority of the tour is between 11,500 to 13,000 feet (3,500-4,000 metres) above sea level, although we may reach a slightly higher altitude on the Changthang Plateau.  Most people do not have any problem acclimatising if you do not do any exercise for the first 24 hours after arriving.  For this reason, we spend two nights in Leh at the start of the trip.

If you have not travelled to these altitudes before, you may wish to talk to your doctor about whether Acetazolamide (Diamox) may be appropriate or useful for you.

An introduction to “glamping Ladakh-style”

With very limited permanent tourist accommodation inside Hemis National Park, many groups who visit Ladakh stay in a homestay or hotel outside of this amazing, protected area and, as a result, they are not necessarily onsite in the early morning and late afternoon when Snow Leopards are generally at their most active. With our groups having witnessed both mating and hunting in recent years, either from camp itself, or very close to camp, we believe it is well worth being at the right place at the right time. We are permitted to drive all the way to camp too, making the journey much easier.

“Glamping Ladakh-style”, onsite, is therefore, by-far the best option. We provide large, comfortable tents you can walk into, standard single beds, chairs, heaters, hot showers and a large heated communal area for meals and socialising. Worried about needing the toilet in the night, we even have a solution for that……

With a fantastic warm and friendly support team who are experts at locating Snow Leopards in Hemis National Park and excellent chances of Pallas’s Cat on the Changthang Plateau, we believe it is entirely legitimate to describe our trip as the “Ultimate Snow Leopards and Pallas’s Cat” experience.

• Ladakh Trip Report 2023
• Ladakh Systematic List 2023
• INDIA Ladakh Snow Leopards Trip Report and Systematic List 2018
• INDIA Ladakh Snow Leopards Trip Report and Systematic List 2017