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WildWings, 577 Fishponds Road, Fishponds, Bristol. BS16 3AF.UK
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Day 1: After an uneventful overnight flight from Gatwick the group arrived tired but safely at Dabolim Airport, Goa. We were transferred to the Beira Mar Hotel and were then settled into our rooms. Before an introductory talk from the leader we spent an enjoyable couple of hours getting to grips with some of the more commoner Indian birds from the poolside/bar area of the hotel. Five Woolly-necked Storks were the star attraction along with Black and Brahminy Kites, Osprey, Green and Blue-tailed Bee-eaters, Alexandrine and Rose-ringed Parakeets, White-throated Kingfisher, Black Drongo, White-breasted Waterhen, Blyth’s Reed and Clamerous Reed Warblers, Baya Weaver, Purple-rumped Sunbird, Common Tailorbird, Shikra, Besra and Red-wattled Lapwing.
In the late afternoon we visited Baga fields and in some nearby trees saw both White-cheeked and Coppersmith Barbets. On the wires were Rosy and Grey-headed Starlings ( formerly Chestnut-tailed Starling ), Pied Bushchat, Ashy Woodswallows, Indian Roller, Malabar Lark and both Common and Jungle Mynas. A quick crake watch only turned up a female Bluethroat and a Common Moorhen.
After a few Kingfisher beers and our first taste of Goan cuisine we completed the log before retiring to bed.
Day 2: Dawn found us at Candolim walking along the road towards the bridge flanked on either side by mangrove swamp. Good views were had of Blyth’s Reed and Greenish Warblers whose persistent calls would be constant reminders of their continued presence over the next fortnight. Another Indian Roller delighted the photographers as squadrons of egrets flew out of their roosts to feeding grounds. Viewing from the bridge we saw several small flocks of Gull-billed Terns, a group of Whimbrel and a lone Black-headed Ibis.
After our breakfast of egg or cheese sandwiches washed down with orange juice we birded a small wooded area before moving on to some open ground and dried up paddyfields . The wooded area was unusually quiet but from a vantage point that overlooked some ponds we saw Wryneck, Pied Kingfisher, six Curlew Sandpipers, a dozen Lesser Sandplovers, Grey Plover, Black-winged Stilt and several shanks. On walking the open ground and paddyfields we could only find Paddyfield Pipits with their characteristic chip-chip-chip calls.
While resting up in the heat of the day, which is most essential, an almost pristine male Black-headed Bunting appeared on the wires
In the afternoon we walked up Baga Hill and it was pleasing to see that the proposed housing development has not yet begun. On the upward journey we had superb views of Plum-headed Parakeets, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Indian Golden Oriole ( a recent split ), Small Minivet, Ashy Drongo, Common Iora, Indian Yellow Tit ( split from Black-lored Tit ), Red-whiskered Bulbul, raucous Jungle Babblers, Paled-billed Flowerpecker, and Purple Sunbird. At the top and as we were enjoying the cooling breeze and stunning views of the surrounding countryside a superb White-bellied Sea Eagle effortlessly floated by.
On the way down we encountered most of the same birds we saw earlier plus great views of Alexandrine Parakeets, probably at a nest site, and had prolonged views of a Rufous Woodpecker as it feasted at an ants nest.
Back at the hotel during our evening meal a pair of Spotted Owlets were calling.
Day 3: It was still dark as we boarded the 6.30am ferry across to Charao Island where we met up with our guide Pramod who resides on the island. He first took us to an area of mangrove in the hope of seeing Slaty-breasted Rail but they did not show. Good views were had of Terek Sandpipers as well as Common, Pied and White-throated Kingfishers, Plain Martin and a lone Garganey. In nearby grassy fields were a flock of Glossy Ibis and a couple of huge, but ugly, Lesser Adjutant Storks.
Our next stop was Mayem Lake. On our arrival some fellow birders told us it was very quiet but even though it was later than we had scheduled our birding was excellent. Birds seen in this semi-open forest included Crested Serpent Eagle, Chestnut-headed Bee-eater, Vernal Hanging Parrot, Crested Treeswift, Golden-fronted Leafbird, Black-hooded Oriole, Black-headed Cuckoo Shrike, Bronze Drongo, Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Common Woodshrike, Asian Brown Flycatcher, Red-vented Bulbul, Thick-billed Flowerpecker, Black-eared Kite (a recent split) and probably best of all a Tickell’s Thrush. Several Black-faced Langurs were seen clambering around in the trees.
Time for lunch and as we walked to a café recommended by Pramod we found Malabar Pied Hornbills which gave themselves away with their manic laughter calls. After more excellent Indian curry dishes we drove to an open area to look for raptors and in just over an hour we saw nine different species including two Short-toed Eagles, Booted and Indian Spotted Eagles, male Pallid and Montagu’s Harriers and Shikra. This bought the days tally of raptors to thirteen (plus a possible ring-tailed Hen Harrier).
As we waited for the ferry back we sifted through the many egrets, gulls, terns and waders as they fed on the mudflats of the Mandovi River.
We arrived back at the hotel in time for a crake watch and on a nearby pool saw Black-capped Kingfisher, Marsh Sandpiper, Little Ring Plover and Pacific Golden Plover.
Day 4: Early morning taxis took us to Morjim beach. Before we reached the beach a breakfast stop was made at a small marsh where the hoped for Grey-headed Lapwing was not to be seen but we did manage to see a Little Heron.
On arriving at the beach we were making our way across the sands to view the gulls when we flushed an Oriental Skylark, giving its buzz-buzz call as it flew off. With ‘scopes we were soon identifying Brown-headed, Black-headed and Slender-billed Gulls with the larger gulls being represented by a few Caspian, the odd Heuglin’s and about half a dozen Pallas’s Gulls, some in almost near adult summer plumage. Lesser Crested and a Sandwich Tern were also present.
A flock of waders “hung out” around a small pool near to the beach shacks. There were Kentish Plovers, small numbers of Lesser Sandplovers, about three Greater Sandplovers and thirty-nine exquisite Small Pratincoles which flew around to show us their underwing pattern.
An unsuccessful search was made for a reported Bay-backed Shrike before en route back to the hotel a stop was made for two Yellow-wattled Lapwings.
This afternoon was spent at Fort Aguada where one has excellent views looking over the Mandovi River towards the Goan capital city of Panjim. Although the only bird added to our ever growing list was Grey-breasted Prinia everyone enjoyed the cooling breeze, the many Black Kites circling overhead and the scenery.
Back at the hotel the Spotted Owlets were finally seen, Black-crowned Night Herons flew into the surrounding fields and a Brown Hawk Owl was heard calling.
Day 5: Today we visited the spring at Saligao and as we ate our sandwiches ( now cheese and tomato ) we saw a Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher. As we walked towards the spring we found a Vigor’s Sunbird ( Crimson Sunbird ) feeding on a flowering banana tree and in a nearby fruiting tree were several Grey-headed Bulbuls, normally a shy and retiring bird, and a Bar-winged Flycatcher Shrike.
At the spring was a stunning, truly amazing white male Asian Paradise Flycatcher as well as White-browed Bulbul, White-throated Fantail and a Red-throated Flycatcher ( aka Taiga Flycatcher ). Naresh, our taxi driver then found the two roosting Brown Wood Owls.
During the lunch period a Crested Hawk Eagle ( Changeable Hawk Eagle ) circled over the hotel and a Streak-throated Swallow was seen.
The afternoon was spent at Carambolim Lake stopping off first to see two roosting Brown Hawk Owls and a Spotted Owlet. At the lake were Oriental Darter, Purple Swamphens, Pheasant-tailed and Bronze-winged Jacanas, some cute Pygmy Cotton Geese, while a large flock of Lesser Whistling Duck held a lone Spot-billed Duck. Nearby wet paddy fields had a flock of waders which included Black-tailed Godwit, Spotted Redshank, Wood Sandpiper and Ruff. A yellow snake was found on the path and it was left well alone especially after all the locals gave it a very wide berth.
Back at the hotel the crake watch again did not turn up any crakes, bitterns or painted snipes but more than made up for this with a Fork-tailed Swift (Pacific Swift) missed by the leader who was trying to locate painted snipe but only succeeded in finding the female Bluethroat. A Temmincks Stint was also added to the list.
Day 6: This morning found us at Dona Paulo for pipits and larks. We immediately found Yellow-wattled Lapwing (twelve in total), Short-toed Lark, Indian Robin, Ashy-crowned Sparrow Lark, Oriental Skylark, Paddyfield Pipit and a very obliging Blyth’s Pipit calling as it flew in.
Then on to Santa Cruz and a stop on a small bridge gave good views of hirundines of which several were Streak-throated Swallows. A hunting ringtail harrier caused some debate ( pallid or monties ) but with photographs taken a positive ID should be attained. A walk around the paddy fields was disappointing not yielding the expected waders due to the mud being hidden by the well grown rice. Overhead we saw a couple of White-bellied Sea Eagles, Indian Spotted Eagle and Marsh Harrier.
Most of the group took a rest during the afternoon but as we were still missing Richard’s Pipit a small party decided to walk Baga fields again. We found plenty of Paddyfield and Tree Pipits and then the familiar “shreep” call gave us the first of six Richard’s. At last!! We also saw two Hoopoe.
Day 7: We had a lie-in to day as we only had the short drive to Arpora. Although the birding was good there were very few new ones. Added to the list were Mountain Imperial Pigeon, Nilgiri Blackbird, Nilgiri Flowerpecker ( Plain Flowerpecker ) and Orange-headed Thrush. In addition we also saw Oriental Honey Buzzard, Crested Hawk Eagle and a Crested Serpent Eagle was heard calling.
The afternoon was free but Ross went back to Morjim calling at Siolim for a reported Grey-headed Lapwing but was unsuccessful. At Morjim all the expected gulls were present providing him with ample photographic opportunities.
The evening crake watch finally turned up trumps with a Painted Snipe and a Cinnamon Bittern.
Day 7: A 5.30am pick up and we were on our way to the famous Backwoods Camp with Pramod, our Indian guide and one of the three founders of the camp. Our four nights visit to the camp, situated on the border of the Bhagvan Mahavir NP, in the Sahyadri Hills on the western side of the Ghats was definitely the highpoint of the whole trip. Everyone enjoyed the relaxed and peaceful atmosphere of the camp, the fantastic food and not forgetting, of course the many birding highlights.
Today, even before we had reached the camp and the delicious breakfast we had seen some great birds. Chestnut-shouldered Petronia, Loten’s Sunbird, Chestnut-headed Bee-eater, Stork-billed Kingfisher, Black-throated Munia, Spangled Drongo, Black-shouldered Kite, Malabar Woodshrike ( Large Woodshrike ), Malabar Whistling Thrush, Dark-fronted Babbler and everyones favourite with its punk hairstyle the Heart-spotted ( stopping ) Woodpecker.
On arriving at the camp we were greeted by a very obliging Indian Pitta feeding behind the kitchen.
After breakfast and tent allocation we were taken a short walk to see a diminuative pair of Sri Lankan Frogmouth in their daytime roost before we were taken for a raptor watch. Here we saw an adult Rufous-bellied Eagle, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Crested Goshawk, Indian Spotted , Black and Booted Eagles and probably the best of all a pair of Mountain Hawk Eagles. We also saw Alpine Swift and House Martin.
During “siesta” time some of the group managed to see both Malabar Grey and Pied Hornbills plus Puff-throated Babbler and the tiny Crimson-backed Sunbird.
After tea/coffee and biscuits we next visited an open area behind the Tambdi Surla Temple at the base of the foothills. In the distance could be seen gigantic Brown-backed Needletails and eventually White-rumped Needletails while in the surrounding bush were Grey-fronted Green Pigeon (a recent split from Pompadour Green Pigeon), a showy Asian Fairy Bluebird, Large-billed Crow, Black-naped Oriole, Flame-throated Bulbul (Goa’s national bird – a split from Black-crested Bulbul), Yellow-browed Bulbul, Malabar Parakeet and Square-tailed Black Bulbul while an Emerald Dove whizzed past and a large flock of Common Rosefinches flew over.
After a delicious evening meal and a few Kingfisher beers to celebrate a fantastic day’s birding we were off to our tents for a well earned sleep.
Day 9: Up early for tea/coffee and biscuits and Indian Pitta and a walk before returning for breakfast. Although the only new additions to the list were Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Scarlet Minivet and Black-naped Monarch some prolonged views were had of good birds seen the previous day.
After breakfast we embarked on a long walk up river in search of forest dwelling species. A short stop at the temple bridge gave us Blue-eared Kingfisher sometimes a difficult bird to see. Soon into the walk we had, almost together, White-bellied Woodpecker and Greater Flameback. We walked for a few kilometres before stopping at a large flat area of rocks that afforded good views in both directions along the river. Birds seen along the route and here were a beautiful male Malabar Trogon (nice one Sheila), Blue-bearded Bee-eater (only seen by two people), Blue-capped Rock Thrush (no stopping Sheila today), Brown-breasted Flycatcher and another Heart-Spotted Woodpecker this one at a nest hole. We heard Indian Scimitar Babbler but it could not be persuaded to show itself.
We made our way back on the other bank of the river seeing much the same with the addition of a handsome White-bellied Blue Flycatcher and Western-crowned Warbler.
In the afternoon we travelled a short distance to an area near a bridge and viewed a large stand of bamboo. Several small flocks of rather drab Brown-cheeked Fulvettas moved through with some Common Rosefinch. Malabar Barbets (Crimson-fronted Barbets) flashed their bright red faces while both Grey-headed Starlings (formerly Chestnut-tailed Starlings) and Malabar White-headed Starlings (recently split from the previous species) sat side by side for comparison. A warbler with a vivid and large supercilium was seen by a non-member of our group but it could not be re-located and therefore not identified. It could possibly have been a Tytler’s Warbler we shall never know.
Our next stop was for nightjars but we waited in vain with no sound or sight of any. As we returned to camp we called in an Oriental Scop’s Owl.
Day 10: First light and with steaming cup of coffee in hand went for the now daily look at the pitta and today it was with an amazing twelve Nilgiri Blackbirds. The three walks today were all on forest trails and great views were had of great birds of which most had been seen previously. New birds were Indian Swiftlet and Greater Racket-tailed Drongo with its amazing tail streamers adorned with terminal rackets. Other birds of note were Bronzed Drongo, Red-throated Flycatcher, Heart-spotted Woodpecker and Mountain Hawk Eagle. Red Spurfowl and Jungle Owlet were heard calling but could not be found. In and around the camp a huge Malabar Red Squirrel moved around in the trees, an Indian Flying Lizard flew to a tree trunk and a swarm of bees flew out of the forest.
Day 11: After coffee, pitta and more blackbirds we drove to Bondla Nature Reserve. Bondla is a more open forest habitat and offers the chance for some excellent birding. On arriving we found in a bamboo stand a pair of Greater Flamebacks and in another bamboo a pair of Black-rumped Flameback ( this probably the most common of Goa’s woodpeckers had so far eluded us ). An astonishing nine Asian Koel flew by and both Brown-headed and Malabar Barbets sang in the early morning sunshine. We had sandwiches, eggs and bananas for breakfast and a very obliging Little Spiderhunter made several visits to a flowering banana plant, a dark phase Booted Eagle soared overhead and a Crested Hawk Eagle called from a nearby dead tree. A raptor found perched was eventually ID’d when it made a short flight as a White-eyed Buzzard.
We walked up the hill towards the zoo and saw a pair of Forest Wagtails perfectly camouflaged for life on the forest floor. Nearby was a bright green Whip (Tree) Snake, perfectly harmless, as demonstrated by Pramod who picked it up and placed it on a gate for photos to be taken. Next was a female Malabar Trogon followed by a gorgeous male that was seemingly accompanied by a showy White-rumped Shama.
At the zoo area, during a drinks break, a pair of Crested Serpent Eagles displayed overhead while a Crested Goshawk cruised by. After a short visit to the zoo to see the captive King Cobra and other snakes we returned to camp.
The afternoon walk was along the entrance track in an effort to catch up on woodpeckers. We heard Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker calling but were not able to find it but White-bellied Drongo and Verditer Flycatcher more than made up for it.
Our last night at camp had a bit of a party atmosphere about it with a few extra Kingfishers and one if not two Cashew Fennys being consumed.
Day 12: The usual early morning ritual, coffee and pitta, was followed by a hearty breakfast of omelettes before we drove to the temple and set off for a repeat walk up river. Although it was unusually quiet some good birds were seen including a male Malabar Trogon, Blue-eared Kingfisher, a group of four Asian Fairy Bluebirds the males with their shiny blue mantles and bright red eyes, our third white Asian Paradise Flycatcher of the trip, White-bellied Drongo, Blue-capped Rock Thrush and best of all a Rusty-tailed Flycatcher, a rare bird in Goa and new for a Wildwings trip as well as myself. Also heard was Indian Blue Robin and Indian Scimitar Babbler ( again it would not show ). At the temple bridge an Indian Grey Mongoose crossed the track and sat on a wall looking at us.
After lunch we said our goodbyes to the camp and after one last look at the pitta headed back to the hotel via Carambolim were we could not find the hoped for Jungle Owlet but did manage an Adjutant Stork.
Back at the hotel the crake watch turned up a very showy Ruddy-breasted Crake and a Painted Snipe. Two of the group went to Arpora and heard several Jerdon’s Nightjar calling and managed to see one in flight.
Day 13: After five days at camp today was a rest day – beach, shopping, catching up on lost sleep or just lazing by the pool. Ross took a taxi back to Charao Island and took a few hundred more photos to add to his mammoth collection. He did manage to add Pintail to the list.
At the hotel the usual birds were seen on the wires and in the surrounding fields and the crake watch managed Ruddy-breasted Crake, Two Painted Snipe, Cinnamon Bittern and a Pintail Snipe ( thanks to the local dogs which kept flushing the bird so we could see the underwing to aid identification ). A Ruddy Mongoose was seen by one lucky observer. I do not think that this has been seen on a Wildwings trip before.
Day 14: Our last day and this morning was spent lazily boating up the Zuari River. On the water sat rafts of Brown-headed Gulls, that is until a maurauding pale phase Arctic Skua came looking for breakfast and ran amok. This, according to Pramod, is a new bird for Goa and for himself. We had two other sighting of skua species, one flying away and into the sun which could have been the first bird and a very distant dark phase bird – both unidentifiable.
As we cruised up river with fish flying out of the water in front and to the side of the boat several small pods of Hump-backed River Dolphins were sighted and both Lesser and Greater Crested Terns perched side by side on fishing posts. Hundreds of egrets perched precariously on fishing nets along side kingfishers in the hope of catching a free meal.
We slowed to a crawl as we entered a side creek and began looking for our quarry. Pied, Black-capped, Stork-billed, White-throated and Common Kingfishers were all easily found along with Little Heron and a selection of waders. Both the guide and leader were looking decidedly nervous as the boat entered a second creek. Eventually and to much relief an immaculate Collared Kingfisher was seen – our seventh kingfisher of the trip.
After the boat trip we stopped off at Goa Velam Lake and added Teal and Shoveller to the list.
Time off this afternoon to relax and pack before catching taxis to the beach where we enjoyed a seafood BBQ.
Day 15: After some delay in picking up passengers from other hotels we arrived at the airport, checked in and took off on time arriving back at Gatwick slightly early. Yet another successful trip with 261 species seen and 6 more heard.
